Not every rock in this box came out of a volcano, and that's worth being upfront about.

• Somló, the extinct volcano behind our Fekete Pince Hárslevelű, is about as volcanic as wine gets: the hill is mostly basalt and volcanic tuff, formed by underwater eruptions roughly ten million years ago.
• Mount Etna, where Ayunta farms Nerello Mascalese on the northern slopes near Randazzo, is an active volcano, and its soils are true volcanic rock that still shifts with every eruption.
• Tenerife's Valle de la Orotava, home to Suertes del Marqués, sits on volcanic ash and rock from Mount Teide. Phylloxera never reached the island, so many of the region's Listán Negro vines are ungrafted and over a century old.
• Slavonia's Kutjevo district, where SoHu's Graševina grows, owes its soil to the Papuk mountains, a volcanic range whose 40-to-60-million-year-old rock underlies the region's "Golden Valley."
• Two bottles are the exception: Itata (Chile) and Muscadet's "Sur Granit" bottling are both grown on granite. Granite is igneous, like true volcanic rock, but it cooled slowly underground instead of erupting as lava, so it's a close cousin rather than the same thing. It still shares the core story: poor, mineral, low-water soil that forces a vine to work for everything it gets.

Call it volcanic or call it igneous. Either way, none of these vines had it easy, and none of these wines taste like they did.