Oszkar is one of the pioneers and driving influences of natural wine in Serbia, and that's not an exaggeration. He's a fourth-generation winemaker whose family moved from Salzburg to this part of Serbia during the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy in the 19th century, and his oldest Kadarka vines date back to 1880. He farms 15 hectares split between two regions, working the land with horses and without herbicides or pesticides. 

What sets him apart from almost every other winemaker I've come across is how he chooses to manage his vines: he leaves them rather wild and "unkempt," as opposed to neatly trellised. His view is that in order to express the terroir, it's better to allow the vines to do as they please. It's a contrarian approach, but it's hard to argue with the results.