Most Champagne is made to be consistent (the same taste, same bottle, every year, no surprises).
What Charles Dufour is doing at Françoise Martinot is the opposite of that. Single vintage, 100% Pinot Noir, organically farmed, native yeast, no filtration. Every decision is aimed at expressing the land.
The Bistrøtage expression specifically is built for the table, and that's exactly the kind of Champagne I want to be opening alongside food, not saving for a toast that never comes.